Brazil
Samba, sunshine, and caipirinhas – the trifecta that lured us Kiwis Off Course to the vibrant land of Brazil! We are always in search of our next adventure, and boy, did Brazil deliver! From the moment we stepped foot in Rio de Janeiro, we knew we were in for a wild ride.
With our guidebook in one hand and a questionable Portuguese phrasebook in the other, we set out to explore the rhythm-filled streets of Rio. The vibrant colors, the pulsating beats of samba, and the impossibly toned bodies on Copacabana Beach – it was like stepping into a real-life carnival, where every day felt like a celebration.
But Brazil had more in store for us than just sun-soaked beaches and caipirinhas that knocked our socks off (literally!). We ventured south to the city of São Paulo– short lived as we headed to a nearby town to stay with friends and their family! We got to experience what life is like living in Brazil and were well looked after – lots of eating and drinking involved! Foz do Iguaca was next on the list and as we approached the majestic Iguazu Falls, we couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and slight trepidation. The roar of the water grew louder with each step, as if the falls themselves were challenging us to come closer and experience their sheer power. And so, we did. Donning our ponchos and bracing ourselves for the spray, we ventured into the heart of this breathtaking spectacle.
From the captivating chaos of São Paulo to the sun-drenched shores of Bahia, we’ll uncover the hidden gems, share our best travel tips (learned the hard way). Let’s dive into the vibrant spirit of Brazil and create memories that will keep our hearts dancing long after the trip is over. Vamos!
*This blog was written in 2016, please note some things may have changed*
Transport
Santa Cruz, Bolivia to Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
Our time for Bolivia has sadly come to an end. We really enjoyed travelling Bolivia and all the friendly people we met along the way. Our next country we planned on visiting was Brazil. The easiest way for us as we were now pressed for time was to fly there.
We flew from Santa Cruz with 2 stopovers before finally reaching Rio (one in Lima and the other in Sao Paulo). Of course these were the cheapest flights we could find, and came at the cost of one whole day of travelling.
Tip – When departing Bolivia via plane you will need to pay a departure tax, remember to save some cash to pay for this tax.
Rio De Janeiro Airport transfer to Bonita, Hostel
We booked our airport transfer through Bonita Hostel. Rio is a huge city the Airport is quite far out from Ipanema. We knew it would be safer to book through them and their driver Flavio, than risk being ripped off by a taxi or to fight the public with our bags on a bus.
We were now in a Portuguese speaking country and new only “Obrigado” aka ‘thank you’ so we took the safe option.
We arrived earlier than expected and Flavio made the adjustments and was very prompt in picking us up. He also gave us a small briefing as we past all the Iconic spots. He was a very safe driver and the journey that took around 40 minutes.
Rio De Janeiro to Ilha Grande
Easy Transfer (includes mini van plus boat ride) – At our hostel we booked a transfer from Rio to Ilha Grande, it worked out to be nearly the same price than doing it your self with public transport and far less stressful. “Easy Transfer” is the company and they are very popular among travelers. With door to door services three times a day – 8am, 11am and 2pm. With this transfer a private boat is also included, this makes everything faster and more comfortable than taking the public transport. The journey from door to door took 4 hours. It was a safe and hassle-free way to get from Rio to Ilha Grande.
Ilha Grande to Paraty
Easy Transfer (includes mini van plus boat ride) – Our first ride with Easy Transfer was indeed so easy we booked our transfer with them from Ilha Grande to Paraty. We got the first boat back at 10am and once we hopped off the boat the van was already waiting for our transfer straight to the door of our hotel. The whole journey took 4 hours including the boat ride. This is the easiest way to travel as they take care of everything bringing you straight to your destination.
It is important for us to not have time wasting problems in transit, we only have a short amount of travel time remaining and would rather be enjoying the destinations than the journey at this point.
Paraty to Sao Paulo
Our next destination was Sao Paulo, where we planned to see some friends. We booked a few days in advance through the company Reunidas online to guarantee a seat. Their first bus to Sao Paulo was at 8.30am. The journey takes around 7 hours, arriving at 3.30pm in Sao Paulo. The buses here reclined back to 160° and the air conditioning was a comfortable 22°. They also stopped a few times for toilet and food breaks.
Tip – There is no need to print your ticket, just simply show the email at the bus company window at the bus station and they will print off your ticket there.
Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguaca
Long journey – 17hours! Lucky we were so knackered from seeing friends that we slept nearly the whole way, which does not usually happen. We had a bit of an issue with Pluma Bus Company. When we arrived at Tiete station, Sao Paulo (the bus station written on our ticket) the attendant told us that the bus would depart from an entirely different bus station – Barra Funda! This was 20 minutes by metro away! We had little time to spare and arrived just in time!
Tip – Make sure you double check with the bus company of the correct station before hand, especially if it is with Pluma. For some reason they don’t put the correct information online or on the ticket.
For an expensive bus it was quite comfortable, the seats were 160° recliners and it had WIFI in some location, which was a bonus. We thought we would be served with food, but instead had dedicated stops for dinner and breakfast.
Foz do Iguaca to Parque Nacional das Cataratas do Iguassu (Falls on the Brazilian side)
We arrived at the International bus station in Foz do Iguassu at around 9.45am, this meant we had time to freshen up in the toilets before heading straight to the falls on the Brazilian side.
To get to Iguacu falls we had to get a bus from the international station to the urban bus station in town. Ask the driver to make sure you get on the right bus. Once you get to the urban bus station you need to change to bus #120, this bus will take you all the way to the parks entrance.
Tip – When you are waiting for bus #120 to the falls make sure you enter the back doors, as you already have paid for the full journey at the international bus station. They won’t give you any paper ticket or receipt.
There is a locker to keep your luggage onsite, we could fit both our big backpacks and one small backpack inside.
Parque Nacional das Cataratas do Iguacu (Falls on the Brazilian side) to Puerto Iguazu (Argentinean town)
On the same day as visiting the Brazilian side of the falls, we took a bus from outside the park entrance, over the border to Puerto Iguazu, this is the town on the Argentinean side where you will visit the Argentinean falls from.
There are two buses that run between the two sides every hour 8am until 5pm – Rio Uruaguay and Cruc del Norte.
The bus takes you to the Brazilian immigration to get your exit stamp and then to the Argentinean side to get an entry stamp. The bus will wait for you at both stops and then take you onto Puerto Iguazu town. This journey took around 30 minutes, both immigration lines were easy and fast.
Tip – As New Zealanders we did not have to pay any entry or exit fees. Check here to see whether your country needs to pay any immigration fees.
Puerto Iguazu (Argentinean town) to Iguazu falls (Falls on the Argentinean side)
Go to the main bus station and buy a ticket from the Rio Uruguay kiosk for a one-way or return ticket to Iguazu falls. This bus goes every 20 minutes from 8am until 5pm and stops at the park entrance.
Accommodation
Rio De Janeiro
Pousada Bonita Hostel – Bonita’s Hostel is so much more than a hostel. They boast the entire holiday package. All you need when you turn up at Bonita’s is time, they will sort you out the rest at reception. Bonita’s have extensive lists of all the amazing activities offered around Rio. Reception is open 24/7 and is totally reliable for help and information, they were so flexible, and able to help problem solve in those stressful times.
We stayed in the private suites at Bonita. The rooms are colourful and homely. Our double beds had the comfort of my personal bed back in New Zealand. Amazing! Clean, tidy and the bathrooms have large shower heads, ahh the little things done right make all the difference.
A swimming pool is in the main courtyard although our schedule was so crammed with only 5 days in Rio, we never had the chance to dive in. Our swimming was done at the beach, only three blocks away. On the way to the beach you pass all the restaurants, bars and a supermarket. Everything is so close!
Bonita hostel has been one of our favourite hostels worldwide, if travelling Rio you need to go and see why!
Ilha Grande
Pousada Paloma – Aquario hostel was our first choice, but unfortunately due to its popularity they were full that night and recommended Pousada Paloma. One street back from the beach and 5-minute walk from town, this place was a haven of relaxation. It was a bit over budget but with slim options we splashed out.
The room was quaint and clean and the bed was large and very comfortable. At night they have a restaurant upstairs with the most amazing food! It can be quite loud but it all dies down at around 11pm.
Aquario Hostel – The following 2 nights we stayed at Aquario, they had the best location in town, being right on the waters edge with amazing views. Each dorm room does offer a bathroom and shower, which was very convenient and kept clean. A complimentary breakfast is included here and was very similar to many places. Eat your breakfast right on the water looking out to sea, it is definitely one of the best views we have visited at any hostel. The staff were very helpful in particular Debbie the manager. She was very welcoming and had a lot of tips and advice on how to spend our time on the Island. We really liked the location of the hostel and thought it had a lot of potential, but we feel there are nicer places to stay around town.
Tip – On the Island there are lots of sandflies and mosquitoes, which will eat you alive! Be generous with the insect repellent.
Paraty
Pousada Rumo Dos Ventos – We found this beautiful pousada online as it was rated one of the top 10 places to stay in Paraty. We thought we would splash out and stay in one of there quaint rooms. We stayed a total of two nights here and it was so nice being surrounded by trees and the sound of nature right on our doorstep. Our room was charming and spacious, with an en-suite bathroom attached and a personal hammock on our terrace – we were ready to relax and enjoy.
The hotel offered free WIFI swimming pool, a large communal area, restaurant and free buffet breakfast. This was a place where we wanted to unwind and spend time at the hotel before exploring the beautiful historic centre of Paraty. The UNESCO historic centre and main bus station is around 20 minutes walking distance from the hotel. It is easy enough to find and the staff are happy to help and mark everything on a map for you. Make sure you wear mosquito repellent to bed as we had a few mosquitoes in our room and Bianca got nailed in the night by many of them. Apart from this we really enjoyed our stay here.
Food
- Churrasco – referred to as barbeque/grilled meat. Brazil offers some of the best meat in South America; here the meat is eaten at a leisurely pace. At home barbecues premium cuts such as picanha (ox rump) are seasoned with salt and herbs and grilled over the charcoal until deliciously pink! Our favourite! Sausages and chicken hearts are also a local favourite. Churrascarias (barbeque steak houses) are typically all you can eat restaurants. They serve the meat on skewers, ranging from pork, lamb, beef and wild boar. Waiters will come to your table and cut it fresh off the skewer for you.
- Coxinha – Crispy on the outside, Coxinha is a rain drop shaped fast food filled with a spiced shredded chicken and gooey potato. This is what you want after a night out and a sober snack!
- Açai – Brazils own super food concoction. Açai is a popular fruit from the Amazon (similar to the blueberry) and well known for its energy and nutrients. It is served as a frozen sorbet topped with granola and slices of fruit.
- Pao de Queijo – This cheese bread is a moreish snack! They are fist-sized balls eaten any time of the day!
- Feijoada – Hearty black bean stew with sausages and pork. The traditional way of making this takes up to 24hours! The stew is usually served with rice, kale and farofa on the side.
- Salpicao – Brazilian salad made with chicken, bacon, raisins, carrots, apples, olives, and mayonnaise and served with shoestring potatoes chips.
- Brigadeiros – are made from condensed milk, cocoa powder, butter mixed in a blender and can be cooked in the microwave in for 10 minutes. Deliciously sweet, this is very high in calories but it’s just so tasty!
- Arroz doce – Rice pudding served with cinnamon, a simple and yummy dessert.
- Agua de coco (coconut water) – found on the beach or at small corner stores.
- Cachaça – An alcoholic spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice and most famously served in a caipirinha, Brazils national cocktail.
- Caipirinhas – Cocktail commonly made with cachaca, lime and sugar. Although other spirits can be used to make caiprinhas, Cachaca is the original ingredient.
Recommended Restaurants
Rio De Janeiro
- Carretao – A traditional Churrascairia Brazilian BBQ grill. Very popular restaurant in Ipanema and buffet style. We picked up all different salads, vegetables and even sushi! Then sat back down at our table with our meat card turned to “yes”, the waiter comes around with different types of meat – pork ribs, sirloin steak, chicken, beef ribs, roast beef etc and slices it right onto your plate. The meat was delicious and by the end of it, we were stuffed!
- Amazonias – Here we had a healthy lunch snack of Açai, it was our first time and it was delicious! From then we got it everyday on the beach as a light snack. It’s so healthy for you I couldn’t help myself.
- B De Burger – If you know me, you know I am a crazy burger lover. Here in Brazil they love their meat, so what better place to try a burger. We walked past B De Burger and it looked like my kind of gourmet sloppy burgers. We came back with an appetite and ordered 2 beef burgers. They where served nice and pink… I was in heaven. It rivals my top burger place in London, Patty and Bun!
Ilha Grande
- Café do Mar – While on the island we were craving some seafood. We walked along the beach and found Café do Mar, it was right on the beach with candles on each of the tables and lanterns in the tree, the perfect romantic spot. Here we each ordered a whole fish, vegies and salad. It was absolutely delicious, a whole fish later accompanied by a few glasses of wine and we were well satisfied. Great restaurant and an ideal location for date night.
Paraty
- Ponto Paraty – After our big splurges in Rio and Ilha Grande we decided to have a cheap dinner. We found Ponto Paraty in the historic centre and ordered the meal of the day. Nicely cooked chicken, salad, veggies and rice. Simple and tasty.
Must see & do
Rio De Janeiro
- Big Dude Tour – If you only have a short amount of time in Rio and want to see it all… The Big Dude Tour is for you. A Ram Jam Cram thank you Mam tour of Rio involving a trip up to Christ the Redeemer, Tijuca national park, a look at the carnival strip, a small walk around the hipster district of Santa Teresa and a chance to visit the amazing staircase “Escadaria Selaron” in Lapa. It was a great one-day trip with an experienced knowledgeable guide and a safe driver, they also pick up and drop you off from your hostel.
- Watch the sunset at the Sugar Loaf – Take the sugar loaf cable car from Praia Vermelha to Sugarloaf Mountain, there is one stop at Morro da Urca, before reaching the summit of 1,300 feet. The sunset here is very romantic and magical to watch, buy a glass of wine and admire the view.
- Sign up to a Favela tour – We booked our tour with Q!Beleza tours, this half day tour offers a local guide who takes you around favela da Rocinha, the biggest favela in South America. This tour is completely safe and our guide was very knowledgeable and offered us the full experience. Many companies do not offer authentic local guides. We choose Q!Beleza because they are locals from the favela and not outsiders.
- Hike to sunrise – Bernardo is an experienced local guide who runs many hiking tours around Rio. He leads you up to one of Brazils best views at 4am for an incredible sunrise from the top of the two brothers mountain, then down through favela da Vidigal – another great viewpoint and location of some of the most famous street art in Rio.
Highly Highly Recommended! - Hang gliding – Soar like a bird across the skies of Rio! The views from the sky are incredible. ‘Hand Gliding Adventures’ have over 20years experience and will keep you safe. It was an extraordinary experience Brett will never forget and something everyone must experience. Highly Recommended!
- Pedro do Telegrafio – Visit the rock made famous by Instagram. Fool your friends with some photo magic. Dangle off a cliff edge and snap some heart stopping photos.
- How to get to Pedro Do Telegrafio: Take a bus from Copacabana/Ipanema to Alvarada bus station (Central terminal). From there buy a card and load money onto it. Then take a Blue Express bus to Mato Alto station. Catch bus #867 to Barra de Guaratiba at the same bus station you get off, there should be one every 20minutes. Get off at the last stop at the beach, walk straight to the end of the beach and then up some stairs. Turn left up the road until you reach a small intersection. Here you will see ‘yellow hiking boots’ signalling to walk the path leading right – do not take this path! Follow the road left another 10 meters and on your right you will see a steep road leading up, walk for another 5 minutes and you will see this sign for the track. Follow the sign and pathway 40 minutes up. Near the end you will see a man offering his rope and photo services, walk past him and down the rocks a further 2 minutes and you will find the telegrafio rock! Tip – The public transport takes around 2 hours and the hike up takes around 40 minutes. Download an offline map beforehand to double-check you are following the correct path. Follow the above directions in reverse back to Rio.
- Spare time for a Beach day – Rio is full of awesome beaches. Spend the day soaking in the sun at Ipanema/Copacabana (touristy beaches) or for surf venture out to find the better waves at Barra de Tijuca where surf-able sand bar beach breaks are found along the entire beach. You will find breaks suitable for all levels of surfers.
- Overindulge at the biggest Boat party in Rio – Bem entertainment has your evenings sorted! Every night of the week Bem throw huge parties. We were on the booze cruise boat party that motored around the harbour to Niteroi bridge, giving part-goers stunning views of the city. Cairpirinhas were flowing and we were raving until 4.30am when the boat finally docked again. Always an awesome night out with Bem!
- Party up in the Lapa neighbourhood – This funky, quirky neighbourhood is always fun on any night of the week! Go out in Lapa especially on a Monday as they have a big street party.
- Take a seat on the most famous stairs in Rio, “Escadaria Selaron”. A beautifully colourful stairway monument, where during construction travellers were encouraged to bring tiles from their home to be incorporated into the staircase. Take amazing photos and try find a tile from your home country.
- Photo opp at Jardim Botanico – Stroll around the city’s botanical garden, which is a great place to take photos especially of Parque Lage. A remodelled mansion that formally was the home of Enrique Lage and his wife in the 1920’s, but it is most famously known as the mansion in Snoop Dogg’s music video for his single “Beautiful”.
- Hippie market on a Sunday – In Praca General Osorio the markets come alive every Sunday. Handicrafts include art, jewellery, clothing and sarongs. Great place to buy gifts and haggle bargains.
- Santa Teresa – One of our favourite neighbourhoods in Rio. It is located on the hill of Santa Teresa, famous for its narrow streets and a favourite spot for local street artists and tourists. There are many beautiful arty boutiques and quirky cafes, a very hipster/cool neighbourhood.
* All tours can be booked through Bonita hostel
Ilha Grande
- Chill out on Lopes Mendes beach – The number 1 must do on the island. Lopes Mendes is voted one of the best beaches in Brazil and it is truly a beautiful place. We hiked through the beautiful rain forest from our hostel, Aquario. Approx 2 hours to get there, otherwise you can take a boat for a price depending by the speed of the boat.
- Hike to Feiticeira waterfall – Another beautiful hike is to Feiticeira waterfall, one of the most beautiful waterfalls on the island. The hike takes around 3 hours and there is a beach close by (Praia de Feiticeira) where you can relax and cool off after.
- Abraaozinho beaches – Nearby beaches close to the main town, Abraao is a 15-20 min walk north. The beaches here are small and quiet with a few bars, great if you still want to enjoy the beach without doing any hiking.
Tip – There are no ATM’s on the island, so make sure you bring enough cash for at least your accommodation and return ferry. You can pay for most other things with MasterCard/Visa at supermarkets, shops and restaurants.
Paraty
- Explore the beautiful historic colonial centre. Cobbled roads and colourful doors make the location a romantic walk about. Dine in the area and take some gelato for your walk to the cathedral. Stunning.
- Trindade – 30min/40 minutes by bus or minivan. Trinidad is a beautiful beach with gentle waves. Stages hold live music right on the beach or find a quiet place in the sun further along. Cachadasso surf beach is only 15 minutes walk over the hill if you fancy a whip around.
- Cachaça tasting – Cachaça the Brazilian spirit was originally created in Paraty. They still create some of the best Cachaça in all of Brazil. Visit a bottle shop in Paraty and the walls will be lined with the sugar cane spirit. Best part of all is the tasting at the counter, can’t make you mind up on what to buy? Try them all first!
Iguassu Falls
- The most under rated must do of all South America. A magnificent display of Mother Nature’s power! Three times the size of the famous Niagara Falls and included as one of the 7 new natural wonders of the world.
- We highly recommend visiting the Iguassu falls from both the Brazilian and Argentinean sides.
- The Brazilian side offers panoramic views giving you an indication of its shear size as you stroll a 1.5km walkway. At the top of the walkway a bridge extends out into the watery mist under the falls near the devils neck. The Brazilian side of the falls took us around 2 hours walk.
- The Argentinean side is more an experience of the falls power. Up close and personal underneath or walking along a pathway close to the falls edges. Walk to the very prescipus of the devils neck and feel its raw gushing power! It took us 4 hours to complete the lower and upper circuits including the train to the devils throat.
- See the transport section to find out how to visit both sides of the falls and on crossing the border.
Photography Tip – Go early in the morning for the clearest photos. Once the sun rises high it reflects off the water mist, this will create a whiteout haze in your photos. The Park opens at 8am so be ready to go then.
Bring a dry bag for your valuables on both sides of the falls. You are very likely to get very wet!
Tips & Advice
- In Brazil the currency is the ‘Brazilian Real’
- The weather is mostly good all-year round which makes it a good travel destination. Winter lasts 3 months from June to August and the temperature low is around 13 degrees. Summer is from December to February and can get to a high of 30/40 degrees.
- The norm is 10% tipping at restaurants. Typically included onto the bill
- Be a smart traveller and do not carry any valuables around with you – passport, wads of cash, credit cards etc, keep them in a safe in your hotel or hostel.
- Book taxis from your hostel or hotel, as they know the right price that you should pay to get anywhere. Uber can be used in the big cities, it is cheaper than taxis and the app does everything for you.
- Metro system is clean and safe when used during the day, we avoided it during the night and used Uber a lot around the city.
- When taking the bus know that you will need to wave it down like a taxi or else it will not stop. Yellow seats are for disabled elderly, pregnant or obese people.
- Free ATM at the Rio Airport – Bradesco (Bank fees may apply, depending on your bank)
- Like all big cities, be careful when walking around at night, take taxi’s everywhere and don’t carry a lot of valuables on you.
- Adapt as best you can to the language change to Portuguese, most Brazilians speak/understand Spanish, which you can use to communicate if you don’t know any Portuguese like us.
- There are no ATM’s on Ilha Grande so make sure you bring plenty of cash, however you can use your MasterCard/Visa at many shops and restaurants.
- Pousadas are what they call guesthouses.
- There are luggage lockers at both sides of the Iguassu falls (Brazil and Argentina)
- Bring a dry bag for your valuables on both sides of the waterfall, as you are very likely to get wet!
How to stay safe at the beach
- Pack light – don’t bring any valuables with you. Bring small cash to buy coconut water and food.
- Avoid taking backpacks as it draws attention.
- When going swimming, try having one person stay with your belongings. Do not to leave your stuff unguarded.
- Try avoiding Sundays, as that is when most robberies occur.
- If robbed, search for a police station to file a complaint for your insurance company.
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