Sri Lanka

Why you should travel Sri Lanka in the off season:

1. Less crowds, the follow on effect of less tourists is not to be underestimated.

2. Everything becomes cheaper, less people means demand drops and with it the prices come tumbling.

3. More relaxing. Debatable because I can’t imagine Sri Lanka  to be anything but relaxing but go with me. It has perfect balance of Less people on the beach, less people in the hostels for you to have your own space and relaxation time.

4. The weather is still beautiful. Prior to our visit during Monsoon season it rained non stop for three days. The two weeks following during our trip was clear sky’s and sunny 30° perfect days the whole time. Compared to NZ winter I know where I would rather be.

5. The waves are bigger. Surfers come to Sri Lanka during peak time for “Indonesia-esk” best-selling waves. Clean waves can be found  however they rarely go over 3ft. In the off season it gets a bit more fun. Sheltered beaches like Weligama receives rideable swells up to 8 feet.

Sri Lanka, the jewel of the Indian Ocean! This tropical paradise is a traveler’s dream, boasting breathtaking landscapes, vibrant culture, and a rich history that dates back thousands of years. From the misty hills of Ella to the golden beaches of Mirissa, Sri Lanka offers an incredible diversity of experiences. Immerse yourself in the ancient ruins of Anuradhapura, discover the wildlife wonders of Yala National Park, or simply relax on the idyllic shores of Unawatuna. With its warm and welcoming people, tantalizing cuisine, and a tapestry of colors, sounds, and scents, Sri Lanka is sure to capture your heart and leave you longing for more. Come and explore this enchanting island, where every moment is an adventure waiting to unfold.

*This blog was written in 2017, please note some things may have changed*

Transport

Singapore City, Singapore to Colombo, Sri Lanka

This journey had an 8 hour stopover during the night at Kuala Lumpur airport, this was ok for us as we thought we would save a nights accommodation. The actual flight time was 4 1/2 hours in total. After a restless sleep we finally boarded our flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka. We flew with Air Asia (both flights) and even though it is perceived as a budget airline our journey was pleasant and we still received a snack/water.

3 1/2 hours later we finally touched down. We were so excited as both of us have not been to Sri Lanka before and we got to share this new experience together.

Colombo to Galle

We arrived at Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo, as we only had 12 days here in this beautiful country we already planned out our travel route.

Brett and I wanted to go surfing in the southern beaches then travel through the inland doing a loop back to Colombo. So this meant upon arriving we had to go straight to Galle, luckily we arrived in Colombo at 9.45 am giving us the whole day to get there.

Once we got out money at the ATM inside the airport, we headed out to the bus stop (located across the road from the airport). We hopped onto the E3 bus heading to Colombo Fort (main centre), the bus journey took around 45 minutes. After arriving at Colombo Fort you must then catch a tuktuk to Maradana train station, it should only take 10 minutes.

We read online that it was better to go straight to Maradana train station to catch the train to Galle as it was the first stop, this meant it was easier to get a seat than catching the train from Colombo Fort (second stop).

Don’t get us wrong though, you may still not get on at Maradana.

We bought our tickets at the Maradana train station to Galle and this journey took 2 1/2 hours. We were starting realise the trains were a very cheap way to get around the country. Once our train arrived, (on time) there were many people waiting to get on board and before it stopped they were already trying to hop on the train, luckily we were able to grab two seats!

There is no aircon but you are able to put the windows down making it bearable to sit in the heat. 2 1/2 hours later we arrived at Galle train station and took a tuk tuk straight to our hotel, finally we had made it.

Galle to Unawatuna Beach

Unawatuna Beach is only 5km away from Galle and rated by many travellers to spend time at Unawatuna rather than Galle, so we decided to check it out. Depending on your accommodation you can either walk or take a tuktuk to the public bus station, in our case we rode a tuk tuk as we were a few km from the station.

Once at the bus station we asked the locals which was the bus for Unawatuna and hopped on, 15 minutes ride later we arrived at the bus stop. We could not believe how cheap public buses were!

Unawatuna Beach to Midigama

Local buses between towns are the best way to get around, it’s super cheap and not to mention you get to ride with the locals so its an experience in itself. We walked to the main road and stood at the bus stop (Usually marked on the road with a yellow box line where the buses stop) we noticed that they don’t pick you up from anywhere on the road, you will need to wait at the designated bus stop. We told the bus driver our destination and he gave us a signal to get on. We always travel with an offline map app on our phone so we were able track our movement and knew when to get off. The journey is around 25 minutes.

Midigama to Welingama

We took another local bus to get to Welingama, it’s so cheap we couldn’t help ourselves. As it was closer our fare was cheaper, we hopped on the bus and it took about 5 minutes and we were there, super easy!

Welingama to Ella

On the last day of our stay in Welingama we did the morning trip activity to Udawalawe Elephant Safari organised by Hangtime. It cost LKR 5000 (excluding entry fee)and it included transport to and from the park, jeep around the park and breakfast. As we were already half way to Ella we bought our backpacks and hopped on a public bus from Udawalawe to Wellawaya and lasted 1 1/2 hours. At Wellawaya we could wait 2 hours for the next bus to Ella or grab a tuktuk, pressed with time we got a tuk tuk for the both of us, they dropped us right at the hotel and only took 1 hour and 15 minutes which was nearly half the time of the bus.

Ella to Kandy

One of the most scenic train rides can be found here in Sri Lanka. Ella to Kandy or vice versa train ride is known for its picturesque views of the rigid mountain range and terraced tea plantations. It is definitely a must when travelling around Sri Lanka.

As this is a popular train amongst tourists and locals you will need to book your tickets a few weeks in advance. While we were in Galle we headed to the train station and a week before booked our tickets, unfortunately third class reserved were the only tickets left available. But this ended up to be the best seats.

Here is  a run down of how the train class system works – you can only reserve tickets on 1st class, 2nd class reserved and if it’s a popular train there might also be 3rd class reserved. This means you will have guaranteed seats and no one will be standing up in the aisles. In 1st class there is an observation view with bigger windows and AC, this is nearly 4 times more expensive and as there is AC this means you can’t open the windows and take photos. I reckon you opt for either 2nd/3rd class reserved to take photos out of the train, you won’t need AC as it doesn’t get very hot and if you do you can open the windows.

If you didn’t manage to book tickets in advance, you can always turn up on the day an hour before departure and buy 2nd class and 3rd class non reserved. There is a high risk you will not get seats as it is first come first serve basis.

The journey is around 7 hours which is plenty time to take photos, relax and soak in the views.

Top Tip – Try get seats on the left hand side if going from Ella to Kandy, halfway through the ride you will come into view many tea plantations and a few waterfalls.

Kandy to Colombo

By the time we tried to book our train tickets all the reserved seats were fully booked, so we went back an hour before the train departed on the day we intended to leave and bought 2nd class non-reserved tickets. This meant we had a high risk of standing the next 3 hours, in which we did. The journey took 3 1/2 hours and stopped at Colombo Fort station. Alternatively you can take a bus but we thought the train would be the most cheapest and fastest option.

Colombo, Sri Lanka to Goa, India

We were unable to find direct flights to Goa, so we settled for the one stopover in Chennai. This meant another sleepover at the airport, unfortunately this was the fastest route for us so we had to deal with it. Flight times weren’t very long, it was just waiting at the airport that took most of our time. Service on SpiceJet was standard, this was our first time flying with them so we were pleased with everything.

Accommodation

Galle

Jetwing Lighthouse – We had just spent the previous 24hours commuting including a sleep on an airport floor. Jetwing lighthouse was a complete flip of the script. Rags to riches.

Jetwing lighthouse is a hotel which pulls out all the stops for its guests. Seaside luxury with super king beds and huge spa ensuites. We were revitalised by a cold towel and fresh coconut water on arrival. A second boost came when we walked into our grand room. Dropping our bags we were giddily swallowed up by our giant bed. Weightlessness never felt better to our tired aching bodies.

A fresh plunged coffee and we began to explore. A tranquil Infinity pool looks our at the raging seas. The bar area is a classy establishment with comfortable seating and a billiards table for socializing. The stand out feature, and what could be a tourist attraction in itself is the grand staircase. An artist impression of the battle on invasion by the conquering Dutch twists it way up three flights in an incredible scene.

With a choice of room service, or an up market restaurant you never want to leave. After cleaning up, putting our robes and settling in, a knock came at the door. Some complimentary chocolates arrived right on Que. Our perfect evening completed.

We took a morning walk along the sandy beach front before a buffet breakfast of everything imaginable filled us up ready for a day of exploring outside this wonderlands walls. Jetwing Lighthouse in one night supercharged our biological batteries and had us feeling like kings. Flashpackers finest.

Unawatuna Beach

La Villa – Situated a few roads back from the beach front, it’s a lovely, quaint and affordable place to rest your head. When we arrived the daughter of the owner checked us in and made sure we were settled in.

Our room was simple and cosy with an ensuite bathroom, very basic but I suppose that’s what you get for what you pay for. The balcony area is very quiet and in the trees, perfect for relaxation.

The WiFi here is very stable, so we were happy to get some work done. Food is also available, we didn’t eat here but if it’s anything like other homestays, I bet it would be delicious. Our stay here was short and sweet but we can recommend this place if you are on a budget.

Midigama

Asanka Surf House – This was Brett’s find on agoda.com and it was perfect! He wanted to come to Sri Lanka for the surf so we made sure to fit in 4-5 days for him to go surfing.

Midigama in the high season is usually really busy but while we were there, Brett and I were the only guests. It was nice in a way as we had the whole place to ourselves. Asanka is the owner and he made sure we were well looked after, he went down to the beach with Brett and showed him the best points to surf. You are able to hire the boards for LKR 300 a day here which is a great price.

Our room was basic once again but we liked it, comfy double bed with a mosquito net and an ensuite. Breakfast is also included which is always a bonus! We had pancakes with bananas and coconut mmm our favourite.

The surf house had an awesome feel to it and in the high season I can imagine it would be pumping. There is beach access across the train tracks and road just for the guests. We do recommend going here in the high season as the surf would be better and cleaner, during the low season Weligama is more sheltered so there are better waves.

Before you leave make sure you get dinner at the house, home cooked curries with papadums and rice, it was so yummy we are still dreaming about that night. We really enjoyed our stay here and hopefully we can come back in the high season.

Weligama

Hangtime Hostel – The word has spread through travellers like wild fire in the two short years since Australian owners Niall and Nick opened Hangtime doors.

Typically booked out in advance right through the high season. Fortunately for us travelling low season we got ourselves in a stylish private room. The double bed is inside an old local style boat, a quirky feature which suits the decor of the place. The third story is where the hang out and restaurant are located, it has awesome views of the Weligama beach right in front of the hostel. It’s also a place you can always find a guest, volunteer or worker to hang out with, everyone is approachable such is the genuine and relaxed atmosphere.

Possibly the defining attribute which should be held high above all other when booking your accommodation, they have a real coffee machine and know how to make a flat white. The homely comfort travellers so often go without.

The guys at Hangtime will accommodate you with whatever you need. Organizing safari tours, surf lessons or even have a local take you stick fishing anything you need can be sorted by this bunch.

Weligama beach is renown for It’s 3-4ft clean beach break, it’s perfect for beginner and intermediate level surfers. Hangtime have all the boards you need in-house. So if you see a swell you can head straight out. What’s lesser known is that during  the off season the wave size and power increases while the tourist numbers drop! A perfect combination for some awesome sessions on waves which can break over 100m from the A frame out front of Hangtime or down the beach at “the island” which split the swell in two forming beautiful left and right breaks. 

Ella

Ella edge resort – Beautiful sweeping views are what Ella Edge resort does best with all the rooms opening out to the stunning valley lying below. An idyllic location set back high in the mountains of Ella. Tea plantations and little Adams peek all within view.

Spacious Rooms all come with large ensuites and elegant decor. The sophisticated feeling is satisfying. Perfectly Located walking distance from town and all of Ella attractions. We enjoyed  the comfort of Ella Edge Resort after days on our feet hiking to the famous nine arch bridge, the second largest waterfall in Sri Lanka and other local spots.

The restaurant at reception level again offers a stunning view of the morning sunrise. Breakfast offers Sri Lankan style hoppers, fresh fruit, toast and coffee satisfies and fuels the day ahead. Helpful staff had all the answer to our many questions on local restaurants, trails, train time and various other activities in the area.

Kandy

Theva Residency – We had arrived in Kandy via the scenic train from Ella, though the great views didn’t stop with the train ride. High in the hillside Theva Residency has a view stretching across the entire valley of Kandy town below.  A view accessible from the restaurant, infinity pool or in most cases from your room.

Our room was simply stunning. A modern stone finish bathroom with high pressure shower cleans off that road dust from travel. Into our hotel robes we dressed feet snug in the slippers. The minibar was tempting, instead we put on the in room kettle and made an exquisite tea. From the super king bed we looked past the Jacuzzi, through the window and out across  the valley. Then back to the Jacuzzi… maybe after dinner.

A pamphlet welcomes you with all the information required not only about the hotel, but also of the places of interest around Kandy.

Our bight room was finished with some beautiful and authentic artworks, more stunning pieces can be found around the hotel. We explored the games room with pool table, a selection of movies and board games. We found the steam room and sauna next to the infinity pool and finally found our chair at the restaurant for dinner.

Romantic and private. The food is little more expensive than the restaurants around town, though the experience is far greater than anywhere else. The chef creates marvellously fresh dishes specialising in around the world cuisine. What a stay! We really enjoyed our stay at Theva Residency.

Colombo

Jetwing Colombo Seven – Another Jetwing stay and once again, I was blown away by the exceptional hospitality and luxurious experience at Jetwing Colombo Seven. From the moment I stepped into the hotel, I was greeted with warm smiles and a genuine desire to make my stay unforgettable.

The rooms are spacious, tastefully decorated, and equipped with all the amenities one could ask for. The comfortable bed and plush linens provided a heavenly night’s sleep, ensuring I woke up refreshed and ready to explore the vibrant city of Colombo.

One of the highlights of my stay was the breathtaking rooftop infinity pool. With panoramic views of the city skyline, it was the perfect spot to unwind and soak in the beauty of Colombo.

The hotel’s location in the heart of Colombo made it convenient to explore the city’s attractions, shopping, and dining options. Whether you’re traveling for business or leisure, this hotel is the epitome of luxury and hospitality. I highly recommend Jetwing Colombo Seven for an extraordinary stay in Colombo.

Unawatuna Beach

• If you don’t want to stay in Galle, Unawatuna Beach is 3 km so you can easily do a day trip to the fort from here.
• Relax, Sunbathe and swim here for a few days. Perfect place to chill and hangout.
• Walk up to sunset viewpoint during sunset to capture the beautiful colours of the sky.
• Take a 15 minutes bus ride to Dalawella beach, this place is instafamous Known by the Palm tree with the swing.
• Visit the sea turtle hatchery in Habaraduwa. We headed over around 5.30pm to release 2 day old baby olive Ridley turtles into the ocean. It was such a special experience. The hatchery not only protect turtle eggs but help injured and sick turtles recover. Once they are healthy they are then released back into the ocean.
• Hire a scooter for the day and drive down the coast to find secret beaches you can have  to yourself. Scooters cost LKR 1000 a day.

Kandy

• The Temple of the Tooth also known as Dalada Maligawa is a main attraction in Kandy. It is one of the most sacred Buddist pilgrimage sites in the world. Built in 1800, this is where Lord Buddha’s teeth are kept.
• Browse through the Kandy markets to find great souvenirs to take home. You can find many exciting goods like jewellery, ceramics, handlooms and many more.
• Visit the largest botanical garden in Sri Lanka, Peradenyia botanical gardens. Built in the 14th century, it is home to a variety of plants and flowers.
• Watch a Kandyan dance and drum show –  Intense, spectacular show of dancers and drummers in traditional costumes. If you have time try to go to a show.
• Head to the Ceylon Tea museum/factory, still a functioning tea plantation where you learn about the process of making tea.
• Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage – PLEASE DO NOT GO! Before visiting elephants anywhere we strongly encourage you to research the ethics of the place. A quick look into the reviews on trip adviser reveals the cruelty of the pinnewala park. Chains, bull hooks and cages are used by abusive mahouts to control the elephants in what is called “the crush”, breaking the animal spirit with tortuous methods, allowing ignorant tourists an opportunity to bath and feed them. Although it may seem like a great experience… this is not a wild animal, nor a natural habitat. This is a cruel practise and in our view should not be supported.

Colombo

After a full on 10 days exploring Sri Lanka, we were pretty tired and needed some well deserved R&R. Here are some main things to do and if like us only have one day/one night.

• Colombo Fort – today there is no fort but plenty of colonial and modern buildings in the area. There is an old Galle Buck lighthouse you can climb the steps of and explore.
• Gangaramaya Buddhist temple – decorated with beautiful brass work, stone carvings and other Buddhist art, this is one of the most respected in the country.
• Independence Memorial Hall – perfect to visit in the evening when the fountains are lit up, very stunning.
• Galle Face Green Promenade – long stretch of green next to the sea, it’s a great peaceful place for walking, running and watching the sunset. In the evening, there are food stalls selling delicious street food.