Colombia

5am, we awoke to a very special sunrise indeed. Mother nature understood this would be our last time enjoying the grace of the Caribbean and treated us to a special show. Tayrona national park was shining bright with oranges, purples and reds. Waving us good-bye as we were about to head south. Every step, every bus ride taking us further away from the Caribbean’s warm oceans and white sands. This was a bitter sweat moment but one of those special times travellers around the world search for.

Colombia is a hugely exciting country to travel right now. Home to everything travellers seek out.
Colonial towns like the ones in Cartagena or Barichara boast some of the most romantic and colourful streets, flower’s cascade down balconies around every corner. The nature reserves such as Tayrona or the sprawling views from Guatape rival any in the world. Hikers rejoice, discover lost cities throughout jungles of Colombia.
If you need to get back to a modern metropolis, Medellin is a city for you. Reborn from the terror reign of the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar, Medellin has gone from the world’s bloodiest city to its’ most innovative (2013). The city thrives with art, culture, and tourism. The coffee lovers like myself will be glad to note, export quality beans are staying local in artisan coffee houses, popping up across the main cities.
As a traveller Colombia is a country I had built up immensely, which is why it is so satisfying that it surpassed all of my hopes and expectations. Once you are enchanted by Colombia, you’ll never want to leave!

*This blog was written in 2016, please note some things may have changed*

Transport

San Blas, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia

Like many people we did not want to go by road from Panama to Colombia (through the Darien gap), as it is far too dangerous. After some research, we found you could sail around the San Blas islands then on into Cartagena, Colombia in 5 days. It was a huge highlight and one of the best decisions we have made on this trip and we cannot stop raving about this unique adventure!

We went with Blue Sailing for a 5 night sail from Panama to Colombia, for the first 3 days you sail around the idyllic San Blas Islands, then the next 2 days are at open sea.

We had an awesome boat full of companions and a great two-man crew making this trip even more special. Harry and his first mate/chef Cesar captained our boat Big Fish. We dined on delicacies fit for kings. Lobster, Tuna and Barracuda, caught straight from the back of the boat. We ate our fill and some. Never were we left wanting anything.

Blue Sailing got full marks and we really recommend anyone to use them.

Cartagena to Santa Marta

If you are staying in the old town then you will need to take a taxi for around 30 minutes to the bus station just outside of Cartagena. Here you can buy your ticket to Santa Marta direct.

Santa Marta is a perfect hub from which you can leave your big backpacks at hostels, while you enjoy day/overnight trips to nearby destinations. We did a number of these.

Santa Marta to Palomino – Catch a local bus from the side of the road direct to Palomino, it takes roughly 2 hours each way.

Santa Marta to Minca – Hostels organise collectivo’s straight from Santa Marta to Minca town. This takes an hour.

Santa Marta to Taganga – A local bus can get you to Taganga and takes 30minutes. As it is so close to Santa Marta you can also take a taxi (perfect for groups).

Santa Marta to Tayrona national park – Take the same local bus towards Palomino but get off at the clearly marked park entrance. The bus takes an hour and a half.

Santa Marta to San Gil

We opted the overnight bus option to San Gil as it would take us 11 hours to get there. Use the website busbud.com to book tickets online. It is an easy to use English language site.
Advance booking is recommended as the popular route often sells out. Print off your email confirmation before arrival to present at the bus company kiosk. Here you will get the real tickets. We used the company Expreso Brasilia who boast wifi, air conditioning and large reclining seats. I didn’t mind the bus ride but on the other hand Brett has trouble sleeping on all busses and was very uncomfortable… I blame his long limbs.

San Gil to Barichara

After our overnight bus from Santa Marta we bought our tickets to Barichara at the same bus terminal. The bus will take you to another local bus station where you will need to change buses (included in the price). The ride takes 45 minutes and is very windy.

San Gil to Medellin

Again we opted for a night bus as it takes 12 hours from San Gil to Medellin. We booked onto the 8pm which includes a change at Bucaramanga. Departure is from the same main terminal we first arrived at San Gil in.

Medellin to Guatape

Head to Terminal Norte station and catch a bus direct to Guatape. This journey only takes 2 hours and buses leave every half an hour until 6pm.

Medellin to Salento

This bus leaves at terminal Sur. Departures are every hour starting from 9am. If you go in the morning I suggested going to the bus station an hour early to book your tickets, as it is a shuttle bus – spaces in the car is limited.

Salento to Ipiales

We committed to a full travel day while we tried to get as far south as we could. We had over stayed our itinerary in Colombia and still wanted to see Las Lajas near Ipiales – a beautiful gothic style cathedral built across a deep gorge.

We set off at 6.30am the morning from Salento and changed at the below bus stations, to arrive in Ipiales in a staggering 17hrs of transit later at 1.30am

See below bus changes and prices.

Salento to Armenia – (1 hour)

Armenia to Popayan – (6 hours)

Popayan to Ipiales – (8 hours)

Ipiales, Colombia to Quito, Ecuador

Crossing the Colombia/Ecuador border was once a very difficult task, not anymore. We took a 10 minute collectivo ride from Ipiales bus station to the border.

There are no exit fees out of Colombia, nor entrance fees into Ecuador. Once you receive your exit stamp you will need to cross the bridge on foot to the Ecuador immigration building for your entry stamp.

This process does not take very long unless you are met with a line.

Take another collectivo from the border to the Tulcan bus terminal. Here you can catch a bus direct to Quito that takes approx 5 hours.

Accommodation

Cartagena

Green House Hostel – This hostel is in a great location right in the middle of the old town, walking distance to everything and in a safe area. A decent cooked breakfast of eggs and fruit is also included.
The only downside to this hostel is that there is no proper communal/hangout area, making it harder to socialise and in with people.

Santa Marta

Dreamer Hostel – This is a very popular hostel amongst backpackers. Dreamer hostel has a very communal set up with all the dorms surrounding a garden, pool and bar area. The hostel is clean, and the kitchen is well equipped for making meals. Dreamer sits perfectly located to where all the busses connecting to the surrounding destinations pass. They also offer a safe place to store bags for a few days at a time while you enjoy the lost city trek, Tayrona national park or Minca.

We highly recommend staying at this hostel.

Minca

Oscars place – Many traveler’s stay at Casa Elemanto home to the worlds largest hammock. It was fully booked when we arrived so instead we stayed at Oscar’s place. The entrance is a 15 minute walk from town through a dense forest (bring a headlamp or torch for night time). Once you arrive the views are very special. Sweeping hillside descends into the distance where the bustling city of Santa Marta sits on the horizon. In September 2016 he was adding in more rooms and facilities. Although there is a kitchen it is not for the use of guests. Still relatively new and has an eco feel.

Taganga

Republika Divanga – We really enjoyed our one night stay in Taganga. Republika is clean and we were welcomed warmly. A sister hostel up the road is open’s its facilities to Republika guests with a pool and bar in the evenings. Lucie the owner was very helpful, she recommended a good, well-known company to do our diving with and hooked us up with a great deal. Little did we know Lucie is also the resident DJ the decks all night at the sister hostel bar! If you are lucky you could experience some DJ Lucie deep house live!

Tayrona National Park

El Cabo San Juan – is a pristine postcard beach in Tayrona national park. You must trek 2/2.5 hours or a take a horseback ride from the park entrance. Stay at El Cabo San Juan in hammocks for the evening. Make sure you arrive before 12.30pm and line up early to secure a good spot. Pack light, as whatever you bring you will need to carry in and out again. Food and drinks are sold at the park for reasonable prices. Lockers are also available although BYO padlock.

This national park was one of our favourite adventures in Colombia, we recommend staying here for minimum one night.

Barichara

Tinto Hostel – Barichara is one of those places you unexpectedly fall in love with. This quaint town stole our hearts as soon as we hopped off the bus. The icing on top was where we stayed, Tinto hostel. A relaxed and elegant vibe, lovely rooms with most comfortable beds, a highly equipped kitchen and a beautiful view to sit down and admire. Free coffee and fruit are provided. The staff were also super helpful and had the answers to all my many questions.

Add Barichara to your Colombia list and fall in love with it just like we did.

Medellin

Casa Kiwi – We love it when travelling rumour’s come true. Casa Kiwi is one of those. We are pleased to say the hostel (run by a half kiwi Paul, don’t listen to lonely planet.) is as good as they say.

The hostel has plenty of different areas for whatever mood you find yourself in. Have a few drinks on the deck, around the pool table or upstairs or take it easy away from the noise in the theatre room, take a swim in the pool or relax in a hammock. Facilities are provided for anything you need and the coffee is always hot and ready to go. Located right in the heart of a modern district thriving with café culture. Not only were the staff super helpful with information and organisation, their colours shone threw when it really mattered. Unfortunately our friend became very sick from a mosquito in Santa Marta. The staff went way above and beyond providing all the care and support of a surrogate mother. Any place that truly cares like they did is a place worth staying at! It also has the name kiwi in it so you know its good! 😉

Tip – We recommend visiting Medellin in the weekend so you can party in the cities amazing nightlife, but it can get busy so book in early!

Guatape

Lake View Hostel – This is a great place to stay if you end up doing a few nights in Guatape. Located walking distance to the colourful colonial town. They provide clean rooms and a few small hangout areas. A Thai restaurant right on their rooftop provides their point of difference. If you are like us and miss some delicious Thai food then treat yourself here, the delicious Thai cuisine is worth every penny.

Salento

Estrella de Agua – We found this lovely hostel just by walking the streets after getting off the bus. Cheap, excellent Wifi and located very close to the main square of Salento. Plus it is only a 2-minute walk to the ‘Brunch’ restaurant, the best restaurant on our trip by far! Check out the food section for more details.

An outdoor kitchen has just enough to get by in a simplistic hostel. I would recommend staying here if you want something cheap and without frills.

Ipiales

Hotel Metropol – If you just need a place to crash for the night because you are en route to Ecuador or getting up early to see Las Lajas, then hotel Metropol is the place to stay. Located opposite the bus terminal and arriving after midnight is not a problem. The bedroom itself is simple and cheap, you pay what its worth. We didn’t stay long here as we only came to see Las Lajas Cathedral before crossing into Ecuador.

Santa Marta

Santa Marta is often used as a base for travellers for easy access to the surrounding area’s activities.

• Taganga – A nearby coastal fishing town with real character. The beachfront boulevard has restaurants selling fresh caught fish. Dive-shops are dotted around the area will take you out for an impressive dive in the marine reserve.
• Tayrona National Park – Spend the night in a hammock under the stars on a beautiful Caribbean beach and surrounded by untouched tropical forest.
• Palomino Tubing – After a 40 minutes hike through jungle with a giant floatation tube jump in the river and relax as you float down stream, beer in hand back towards town.
• Minca – is a small village up in the mountains surrounded by coffee fincas (farms). Plenty of hiking and horse riding to be done here. We recommend visiting El Pozo Azul, the nearby waterfall to cool off. Also check out La Victoria coffee finca, you can join in on one of the tours or relax in the onsite café with fresh cakes and a delicious fresh coffee made to taste.
• Lost city trek – This hike is fast becoming Colombia’s answer to Peru’s famous Inca Trail. A 20km long hike through the dense Colombian jungle to a grand site of ancient ruins. The hike takes just over 5 days. Some say the trek itself is more rewarding than the archaeological ruins. If you like hiking we recommend doing it.